Background

The West Highland Way was officially opened in 1980. The Countryside Commission for Scotland together with local Regional Government employed units from the regular Army, Territorial Army, the Forestry Commission and groups of volunteers from the British Trust for Conservation to clear the path, dig drainage and build the many small bridges needed along the Way. The West Highland Way runs through glens ( steep sided valleys ) for two thirds of its length and is a clearly marked path, easily navigated and well managed. Park Rangers and Wardens patrol its 95 miles / 152 km length - which can be comfortably walked in one week.

Between 1725 and 1767 the government built some 1,200 miles / 1,931 km of road and 700 bridges in the highlands of Scotland in order to garrison the highlands and if necessary, move troops quickly around the interior to suppress rebellion among the highland clans. A benefit of these roads was that travel in the highlands was much easier and faster and so the highlands were opened up to the rest of Scotland. Many of these roads were improvements to more ancient paths and have become the route of the West Highland Way. Parts of the route were once Drover Routes ( routes used to move cattle ); others were coach trails, estate paths or railways.

The Way now receives so many visitors each year that repairs to the path are constantly ongoing, but care is taken to blend in the repairs with the habitat and so maintain the natural look and character of the West Highland Way. The WHW is a favourite location for film makers in Scotland especially from the middle of Rannoch Moor up to the mouth of Glen Coe, this area having been the setting for several major productions such as Braveheart - scenes shot in Glen Coe, Glen Nevis, Loch Leven and the Loch Leven hills, and Rob Roy - scenes shot in Glen Coe, Glen Nevis and Rannoch Moor. For one of the Harry Potter movies £2 million was spent on a set in Glencoe more than 900 metres up a mountain with around 400 crew members needed for filming.

There are plenty of places offering hospitality along the Way, ranging from Hotels and Hostels to B & B's, as well as numerous camping sites - all of them catering for the 50,000 people who walk at least part of the Way each year. Since the Scots have a reputation for being a friendly nation, the social gatherings in the evening are sure to be a big highlight of the trek no matter where you spend the night. You will find an accommodation list by clicking the 'Over - Night' link on the top left navigation bar.

The West Highland Way trails through several of the scenic shires of Scotland, it starts in Dunbartonshire which takes its name from Dumbarton - 'Dum' ( Fort ), 'Barton' ( Briton ) i.e. 'Fort Briton' or 'Fort of the Britons' ( the capital of the ancient Britons of Strathclyde whose territory at the time of the Roman invasion, stretched from Stirling down to Lancashire in modern England. Dumbarton is also believed to be the birthplace of St Patrick, patron saint of Ireland ). The WHW then passes through Stirlingshire, Argyllshire, Perthshire, and Inverness-shire. The towns on the route are | 1 - Milngavie | - | 2 - Drymen | - | 3 - Balmaha | - | 4 -Rowardenan | - | 5 - Inversnaid | - | 6 - Inverarnan | - | 7 - Crianlarich | - | 8 - Tyndrum | - | 9 - Bridge of Orchy | - | 10 - Kinlochleven | and | 11 - Fort William | There are also stopovers at two remote hotels - | Inveroran | and | Kingshouse |.

Description

The Highlands of Scotland cover an area the size of Belgium and have some of the finest scenery in Europe. One of the attractions of the WHW is the great variety of scenery that it covers in such a relatively short distance. It begins at Milngavie - ( 'Milngavie' pronounced as 'Mill-Guy', is from the old British language once spoken in Lowland Scotland and over all of England and Wales. It translates as Mill n' Gavie i.e. Mill of David ). The West Highland Way begins here in the flatter lowlands, but offers views of the rolling Campsie Hills, including long extinct volcanoes. The walker soon meets the Highland Boundary fault where the lowland land-mass crashed into the older Highlands. The upheaval created the first real test of the Way - Conic Hill ( 1,207 ft / 368 m ). When ascended the hill offers spectacular views of Scotland's largest fresh water Loch the beautiful Loch ( Lake ) Lomond ( Luminous ), named because of the bright luminous quality of the waters of the Loch - even on a dull day. Lakes in Scotland are called Lochs, there are only two bodies of water that are called lakes, the Lake of Mentieth in Perthshire and Press Mennan Lake in East Lothian - all the rest are called Lochs.

Loch Lomond is 23 miles / 37 km long and 5 miles / 8 km wide at its widest point. It lies at 27 feet / 8 meters above sea level, dropping to a depth of 623 feet / 190 metres, and contains game fish such as salmon, sea-trout and brown trout, with coarse fish such as perch, roach, ruffe and monster pike, as well as large eels. Probably the most common fish ( only found in a few locations throughout the UK ), are the herring that were stranded in Loch Lomond because of sea level changes due to the end of the last glaciation, and then adapted to fresh water. One quarter of all known British flowering plants and ferns can be found in the Loch area, and being at the cross roads of several migration routes, it attracts about 220 species of birds, including White-fronted and Greylag geese from Greenland. The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds has a reserve near Inversnaid. The waters of the loch are siphoned to quench the thirst of Glasgow and other towns, who between them take about 220 million litres each day. Loch Lomond treats this as a paltry amount of water, hardly worth noticing - the water level in the loch only drops by 3mm. That's about 3 times the thickness ( not the width ), of the nail on your finger.

The Loch's shores play host to a wide range of animals such as red deer, fallow deer and feral goats, and on one of the Lochs islands there are the strangest visitors to these parts, a thriving wild colony ( in spite of the Scottish winter ), of herbivorous marsupials - Kangaroos! There have been claims that some of them have made it to the mainland, but Park Rangers say there is no proof that any of them have managed to get off the island. There are ferry services to some of the Lochs islands such as Inchcailloch ( receives about 20,000 visitors each year ), where St Kentigerna founded a religious community in 717 AD. A church was built on the Island in the 13th century and remained as the parish church up until 1621, ( many of the Clan MacGregor were buried here including some of Rob Roy's ancestors ) - burials in the church grounds continued until the 1940's.

There is evidence that the Loch islands have been used by people for about 7,000 years, which is not that long after the ice retreated from Scotland. The WHW passes near Strathcashel Point to the north of Balmaha, which contains the remains of a 5,000 year old enclosure and a Crannog ( an Iron Age man made island containing a lake house, built for defence ), that lies just offshore. Each island name has a distinct meaning e.g. Inchlonaig - Island of Yews. Planted with Yew Trees for the Archers of Robert the Bruce - the island has the most dense Yew forest in Europe. Inchmurrin - is named after Saint Mirren- and is the largest inland island in Britain. The word 'Inch' in each of the above island names is a Scottish word meaning a small island. At Loch Lomond just north of Rowardennan the WHW enters more remote Highland terrain and the Way becomes a little more demanding and exposed.

Loch Lomond has seen many invading visitors including Viking long ships. Before the Vikings were defeated by the Scots at the Battle of Largs, they dragged about 40 long ships over from the Clyde via Loch Long into Loch Lomond and burnt and pillaged the settlements on the Loch's islands and shores.

At Loch Lomond the scenery changes dramatically as the rugged mountains of the highlands begin to dominate. Along the side of the Loch, the West Highland Way winds through a forest but opens into clear areas of great beauty, including a pleasant stretch along the shore front. Sir Walter Scott observed in his book 'Rob Roy' that the scenery around Loch Lomond, 'offers one of the most surprising, beautiful, and sublime spectacles in nature'. The West Highland Way runs along the east side of the Loch for about 19 miles / 30.5 km. The WHW then extends through the Highland mountains and through Rannoch Moor - one of the great wildernesses of Europe, being 50 square miles of uninhabited moorland that sits 1,000 feet above sea level. Here millions of years ago a great glacier was born that inched south and eventually gouged out Loch Lomond. The West Highland Way passes along the western edge of Rannoch Moor which means that the Way is very exposed, offering almost no shelter in bad | weather |. The walker should bear in mind that Rannoch Moor can have 120 inches / 3,000 mm of rain in one year. When you combine the exposed conditions, the wind and the rain, it becomes clear that it is important to carry the right clothing at all times, but especially if you are walking in early spring or late autumn when temperatures can drop quickly.

The final part of the West Highland Way is through rugged mountain terrain past the awesome Glen Coe - one of the wonders of Scotland - up to Fort William, which was built as a military garrison to keep the wild highlanders in check. Interestingly this part of Scotland was once joined to North America before the landmasses were moved apart by the volcanic activity of the 'Mid-Atlantic Ridge'. See the | Rock n' Roll | page for more detailed information on Scotland's geology.

Under the new Scottish Outdoor Access Code it is now possible to take dogs on the Way on all sections for most of the year, with some provisos.

More detailed info on taking dogs on the West Highland Way | Dog access |

In the past the WHW was the main route used by Cattle Drovers to get their stock to the markets in the Scottish Central Belt ( about 10,000 sheep and about 8,000 - 10,000 cattle were moved each year ). The Drovers kept dogs to help them in their task and to protect the herds at night. These dogs would have their meals for the return journey pre-paid by the drovers as they journeyed south. When the herd reached the markets in Glasgow and the sales were complete the drovers stayed on in the city to celebrate their prosperous journey, but it was common practice to send the dogs away to make the return journey home on their own. Free from the slow humans and the slower cattle the dogs would make good speed travelling at a fair cantor, the more mature dogs leading the younger inexperienced ones back the 100 miles along the West Highland Way to Fort William. When the dogs arrived at the pre-arranged stop-overs along the route, they would bark loudly and persistently to announce their arrival. The cooks and landlords having been pre-paid ( and highly regarding these working dogs that brought them such good prosperity ), would supply them with a meal. In Fort William the dogs would receive daily pre-paid meals and would wait each day at the Ferry Pier. When the short celebrations in Glasgow were over, the drovers would return to Fort William by ferry where the waiting dogs would be re-united with their masters.

The paperback on the left is the one we used on our walk. It has excellent Ordinance Survey maps broken into sections and has good background information on places of interest - highly recommended. It can be bought in many walking and hiking stores and in the Tourist Information Centre in Glasgow. Publisher- Aurum Press Series O/S Recreational Path Guide. Author-Anthony Burton. Cost- £13

Mobile Phones

Many walkers have Mobile ( cellular ) phones which they carry as part of their daily and emergency equipment. If you have a mobile it certainly is a good idea to carry it on the West Highland Way in order to be able to keep in contact. However, there are many areas in the Highlands of Scotland where mountains and hills block the signal and make it almost impossible to get a connection. With time this situation will no doubt improve, but at present it would be foolish to completely rely on being able to press a button and contact the Emergency Services - or anyone else. Take your mobile with you on the WHW, but do not bank on being able to use it successfully whenever you need it; have other emergency strategies in case your mobile turns into a useless piece of plastic. Please also remember that some towns along the West Highland Way are remote and have limited services e.g. there are no shops, banks, police or doctors at Inversnaid. The nearest services are at Aberfoyle - 15 miles away. This link will give you more in-depth | Hints n' Tips | on walking the West Highland Way.

Route Markers

To guide walkers along the West Highland Way, the above logo - a thistle ( Scotland's national symbol ) set in a hexagon, is branded on well positioned and clearly visible posts. A yellow arrow on the same posts indicates changes in direction. However, as any experienced walker will tell you, it is often at those points where you are unsure which direction to go that the logo suddenly seems to become invisible. The answer? Always carry a map. Every good walker has a map of the route being travelled and - even when not lost - consults it regularly. In reality there will be very few times ( if any ) when the West Highland Way will be unclear, but it is always possible ( at certain times of the year ) that the Way will be shrouded in fog or mist, so carry that map, let's be safe - not sorry. Before you set out on the WHW buy a guide book in Glasgow, one that contains a map of your route. One other point worth mentioning is that some people may wonder why the walk is from Milngavie to Fort William and not the other way about. Numbers of walkers do trek from Fort William south to Milngavie, but the simple reason for travelling north is that the sun is behind you and the prevailing wind is at your back or rear left flank, not in your face, so if it does get windy and the wind carries rain ( as it frequently does in Scotland ), you won't find the experience too unpleasant.

The booklet on the right is a must buy for anyone considering walking the West Highland Way. It contains an excellent list of accommodation over the full length of the Way, including addresses and telephone numbers. Get this booklet, ring a few numbers, make your reservations - and your accommodation is done and dusted before you've taken even one step on the WHW. A few, but not all places, require you to send them a small deposit in advance. The booklet can be bought in the Tourist Information Centre in Glasgow, Publisher- Joint Publication by those who fund the upkeep of the West Highland Way -mainly Scottish Natural Heritage. Cost-50 pence.
If you can't get hold of this booklet check out the | Over-Night | Accommodation Page for similar details.

WHW Race

A West Highland Way Race is held once every year when the whole distance is covered by runners. This race is not for the faint hearted, the unfit, or the sane, as the leaders will finish the gruelling and punishing 100 miles in under 18 hours. But then, why run when you can walk - and take time to appreciate the fantastic scenery. Walking the WHW in a week ( about 13 miles / 21 km a day ), would give you plenty of time to enjoy the breathtaking views. View the route | maps | of the West Highland Way.

Robert the Bruce

The film 'Braveheart' portrayed Robert the Bruce as a weak man who unwittingly betrayed William Wallace. This was probably done in the film in order to make Wallace the absolute focus of attention. The truth is that it was Bruce - inspired by the leadership of Wallace and his executed in London in 1305 - who was to gain independence for Scotland. Hundreds of years later when Scotland joined England it did so as a free independent nation - not as a conquered one. Several later Scottish Kings ruled over the whole of Britain from London. After the death of Wallace, Bruce was outlawed and fled, his wife was taken hostage and his lands and castle were seized. At one point he came to a cave on the WHW ( now known as Rob Roy's cave ), where a flock of goats were resting, having chased the goats outside he hid in the cave. English soldiers who were searching for Bruce came near the cave but when they saw the flock of goats grazing near the cave-mouth they supposed that no-one was inside; they reasoned that if anyone was in the cave the goats would have fled in fear. In gratitude for this deliverance Bruce later ( when he became King of Scotland ), passed a law that the goats were to be allowed to roam free forever. Walkers on the West Highland Way often meet the descendants of those feral goats.

Photographs of the descendants of those goats can be seen on the | Photographs | link.
To help protect these goats visit| the British Feral Goat site |

Rob Roy

The outlaw Rob Roy MacGregor ( known as the 'Robin Hood of Scotland' ) used the West Highland Way to hide during his hunted years. He became a soldier at 18, probably becoming the best swordsman in Scotland with the Highland sword called a 'Claymore'. The MacGregors were notorious cattle rustlers who were the cause of a great deal of loss to southern farmers, but by the time Rob Roy was a young man the clan had seen a greater opportunity for gain and had moved into the protection business - cattle protection. This business was looked on by the government as racketeering and so huge fines were threatened on any farmers who were proven to have signed-up the MacGregors. Most farmers in the area just north of Glasgow joined their protection anyway - because it was the only protection they could get, the government being powerless to stop the rustling. Since it was common knowledge that most of the rustling was done by the MacGregors, it was no surprise that things improved when they started guarding the livestock.

At times other clans would do the raiding and then true to their word, the MacGregors armed to the teeth, pursued them sometimes far into the highlands and forced the rustlers to surrender the stock, which the MacGregors then returned safely to their rightful owners. Impressed by the MacGregors success the government then hired them to officially protect the livestock and gave them the name of 'The Watch' and it is known that Rob Roy served in the Watch as a young man. He later started his own cattle business where he gained a reputation for fair trading and expanded his trade over 10 years by borrowing from the Marquis of Montrose. When one of Rob's agents ran off with £1,000 of a Montrose's loan the Marquis had Rob's home burnt to the ground and attempted to seize his lands. Rob became an outlaw and raided all over the area, slipping back to the West Highland Way where a cave is said to have been his hiding place. The Way passes close to this cave on the shore of Loch Lomond - you can take the short detour to check it out. Rob Roy was captured on a few occasions but he always managed daring escapes.

One story in his life happened near the West Highland Way in 1716. He heard that a poor widow was to be evicted from her house because she couldn't pay the rent. Rob Roy paid her a visit, gave her the rent money and told her to be sure and get a receipt from the factor when he called for the rent. When the factor arrived the old lady paid the amount due, the factor wrote her out a receipt and left. Guess who held up the factor on his way home and relieved him of the rent money? You guessed it - Rob Roy! The old lady? Well she had the receipt proving that she had paid the rent in full. Rob Roy never killed anyone and when he eventually gave himself up to the authorities he was tried and sentenced to be exiled, but was then pardoned before the sentence was carried out. He died at his home in the Highlands in 1734 aged 63, leaving his family £274:13:4 in his will.

Midges

No discussion of the West Highland Way would be complete without mentioning the 'Guardian of the Highlands', a creature that is able to drive away the weak-willed, and the half-hearted. This beastie is no fable though stories about it have reached mythological proportions. Ladies and Gentlemen, let me introduce to you ( a few pages later ), 'the Scourge of Scotland', 'the Guardian of the Highlands', 'the Ghoul of the Glens' the - | Scottish Highland Midge! |

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Buy a DVD celebrating the 25^th anniversary of the WHW.
This highly recommended DVD records the walk of David and Debra Rixon in May 2005.
| Grindelwald Productions |

A large selection of books and maps can be bought online at | Guidepost |

Books on walking routes throughout the world, including the West Highland Way
can be bought online at | Rucksack Readers |

Next - View | Route Maps | of the West Highland Way